The Cost of Repairing vs. Replacing Boat Seats

Repairing vs. Replacing Boat Seats

The summer has come to an end, sadly… Boat owners are quite used to the right of passage of being a boat owner, which includes plenty of maintenance. Some people address repairs in the spring - some tackle them in the fall so spring is more fluid ritual of actually getting to the water.

Despite regular maintenance and care, it’s likely your boat seats will sustain damage as your it ages. Marine-grade vinyl is durable, water-resistant, and not prone to fading. But wear and tear is inevitable. Stepping on and off the boat also adds additional wear on the surfaces as your feet or shoes dig in for stability. Eventually, even marine-grade vinyl will fade or crack, and constant exposure to water makes mildew a concern.

As your boat gets a layer of dirt and dinge that becomes harder to remove over the years, you may find yourself vising a boat show or looking at websites for upgrade solutions. But the price of new boats is heavy stuff, specifically in today's financial environment. Supply chain issues, rising oil prices, inflation, and labor shortages are causing the price of boats to hit record highs - still. The price of fiberglass outboard boats is up almost 10% from 2019. While prices are starting to find their peak, buying a new boat (amongst other toys) may be out of reach for many people.

Cost of Reupholstery

If your boat’s vinyl seats, hard plastic areas, and even windshields are showing signs of age and wear, you may want to consider your options. You might immediately think that re-upholstering is the way to go. While this option is definitely cheaper than replacing or buying new, it can still be very expensive. You can expect to pay upwards of $500 to reupholster a captain’s chair and somewhere in the ballpark of $100 - $300 per cushion. Hourly rates may range from $50 - $100 per hour in boat upholstery repair costs.

You’ll also have to dock the boat while this work is being done. Depending on your vendor and how they work, this could cut into your summer boating fun.

The Color Glo solution

Color Glo International grounds its business in refurbishing vs replacing. A much more cost-effective solution is to repair your damaged surfaces on-site with a CGI specialist at your location. Color Glo is a national and international leader in leather and vinyl restoration and boat upholstery repair.

Color Glo International’s specialists use water-based products and are trained in the latest restoration techniques to make repairs on-site (in your boat) and save you money. From serving marinas to boat dealers to boat owners, Color Glo has the tools and experience to get the job done right. Our technicians can restore boat seats, tops, engine enclosures, ceilings, beds, and carpeting. They repair and re-dye tears, holes, scuffs, and scratches. We can even re-dye/re-color vinyl and plastics.

Want a new boat? Change its look!

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

Preventing damage

Once a Color Glo franchise has come to visit you and repair cracks, sun-fading, cloudy plastic shields, tears, burns, and more you may want to take some steps to prolong the life of your newly refurbished marine equipment.

Just like if you were to remove your boat from the water after every use, you’ll want to keep it clean in between uses. No doubt, while you're having fun in the sun, spills will happen, and crumbs and other food will fall to the floor. You’ll want to wipe, vacuum, or clean these up quickly. You can also install vents in your boat cover to allow the interior of your boat to properly dry when you close it up for the evening. It’s also important to deep clean your boat a couple of times a month when it gets frequent use. Gentle cleansers and soft cloths work well both inside and outside of your boat.

Request a free quote

Color Glo International can help with many upgrades inside of your marine equipment We can refurbish your plastic, vinyl, and upholstery while working on-site, at your location. Burns, fading, tears, etc, will all be restored to new, saving you up to 70% over buying new.

---

Contact a Color Glo Specialist about your Boat restoration project.

RV Repairs & Upgrades that increase Value

Why RV Repairs Increase RV Value

Over the past couple of years, you probably either hit the road with your RV or camper more than usual or you may have bought one for the very first time. You may notice that when living in your RV part-time, it begins to show some wear and tear very quickly. We’ve put together a few repairs and upgrade ideas that can not only help you maintain your RV value but increase your value and help get prepared for your fall/winter adventures or the next upcoming season.

Now, while you might consider your RV an extension of your home where valuable family memories are made, you also realize that, like any automobile, it is a depreciating asset. It is very likely that your RV lost 10 - 30% of its value the minute you drove it off the lot. Class A RVs will lose up to 50% of it’s value after a decade in service, according to J.D. Power, which is a leading vehicle data and information provider.

Depreciation

There are many factors that influence a camper’s depreciation. Understanding these factors can help you maintain your RV’s value. The hardest depreciating factor to combat is time. While mileage does not play a significant role in the value of your recreational vehicle, time certainly does.

There are some steps you can take to boost your RV’s resale value and keep it in the best shape possible as you head out on new adventures. In addition to making sure that your RV undergoes regular maintenance to stay road-ready, there are things you can do to the interior to increase appeal. This is where Color Glo International comes in…

Upgrades That Increase Sale Price

Reupholster the furniture

RV upholstery is built to withstand the elements, but normal use or wear and tear and the damaging rays of the sun can cause fading and blemishes. Ensuring your upholstery is in prime condition by making repairs will dress up your RV interior.

Change the carpet

If your RV has carpet, you may want to replace it when it starts to show signs of wear. Children, pets, and outdoor debris can do a big number on the carpet in your recreational vehicle. Carpet is also known to trap unpleasant odors and bacteria. In addition to vacuuming regularly, replacing our carpet can go a long way to making your RV shine with glory!

Replace window coverings

Having the proper window coverings or blinds offers privacy and can help protect your interiors from damaging UV rays. As manufacturers improve the quality of window coverings, staying on top of the latest styles and quality trends can make a buyer take notice.

Update cabinetry

You’ve had your RV for years - let’s face it, the styles change. What once was chic and functional is now old and archaic. Cabinets that were cutting edge now look dated and worn. It’s not cost-effective to replace them, but swapping out the hardware is a simple way to give them an upgrade and bolster your resale value. In a similar vein, adding a peel-and-stick backsplash can brighten up your RV’s appearance and give it a contemporary touch.

Who doesn’t want that??

Sanitize the cabin

If your RV gets used, then you’ve probably wondered “what is that smell”?if you have dogs, cats, children (or spouses), then it’s likely stuff just doesn’t smell fresh. Furthermore, the average steering wheel contains several times more dirt, grime, and bacteria than the average public restroom. Getting your RV sanitized at least once a season will ensure it’s free of germs and that it stays in tip-top shape for the next adventure.

Add storage

If you have space in your RV that can be repurposed or maybe a corner or wall with dead space behind it that doesn’t make sense, then consider adding more storage and opening everything up. Keeping things stowed properly and in an organized fashion will help you declutter and appear more attractive to potential buyers.

RV Pro Tip ***

Often when people buy used RVs or even larger motorhomes, their first inclination is to rip out some of the built-in seating. Try to resist… One of the best ways to ramp up the value of your RV is to have plenty of sleeping spaces. You might like the look of a modern sofa or freestanding table, but unless it can convert to a bed, it will only decrease the attractiveness of the vehicle.

Request a free quote

Color Glo International can help with many upgrades inside of your RV. Some of our specialties are actually in categories above and beyond the basics mentioned above. We can bring the yellow tinge on your headlamps back to crystal clear. We can refurbish your leather, vinyl, and upholstery while working on-site, at your location. Burns, fading, tears, etc, will all be restored to new, saving you up to 70% over buying new.

---

Contact a Color Glo Specialist about your RV restoration project.

How To Restore Your Car Headlights To New

Restore your headlights

Are you car headlights looking a bit foggy? It's an inevitable part of owning an automobile for a period of time; the plastic picks up residue, endures weather and fades. This fogginess is due to oxidation on the lens (polycarbonate is a porous material). Once oxidation begins to take place, it can quickly degrade the headlight lens. It's important to have clear headlights for many reasons. The obvious one is for your safety during night driving, but it can also be a major factor in the resell value of your car. 

If your headlights are looking dingy, you can restore them with household supplies. Auto shops can be fairly expensive and provide lackluster results in some cases. We recommend contacting your local Color Glo headlight restoration, specialist for a professionally done, long-lasting job that cost less than the auto shop and saves you frustration. 

Headlight Restoration

by Color Glo International

What you'll need to restore headlights 

To start, you'll need to get a few things organized:

1. You will need a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch drill, insulated and preferably not battery powered unless it turns at least 1300 RPM no load. (The ideal speed is 1300 RPM, a battery powered drill that turns 1300 RPM no load will turn about 1000 RPM with a load. Lesser speeds will work they will simply lengthen the process a bit. Do not worry about exact speeds.)

2. A spray bottle full of water with the nozzle set on spray vs. stream.

3. A clean soft rag plus a lint-free cloth.

4. 2-inch blue painters tape.

The Process

Tape off your headlights with the painter's tape to protect the paint around the headlight enclosure. Again, we suggest 2-inch painters tape. This will keep the sanding disc from damaging the hood in the event you get too close.  

Image: Viralnova.com

Put your back into it

The next step involves sanding the surface. Some like to use sandpaper; Color Glo specialists use sanding discs on a drill for an evener surface cover. When working with Color Glo, our specialists will place an 180 disc onto the backup pad, then onto the drill. You'll wet the headlight with your spray bottle full of water. You should also wet the sanding surface or paper. Next, sand the headlight until there is an even haze. Rinse with water. 

Color Glo specialists will repeat this process five more times until ending with a 4000-grit pad on the drill. You can totally go through this process on your own. You will invest money into the initial products if you don't already have them. You'll also spend a good chunk of your Saturday afternoon, perfecting your process. If you're ambitious, we say go for it. If you'd like to restore your headlights or do automotive restoration on-site and affordably, then simply give us a call. We help thousands of customers at their homes, garages, and businesses with industry-leading, efficient time frames, and costs. 

BEFORE

AFTER

---

Need a Color Glo Specialist? 

Why You Should Restore Your Old Shoes

How to restore old shoes

A man’s or woman’s shoes are a reflection of who they are. We pick from options like wingtip and stiletto amongst many other to define our character and walk with pride. In essence our shoes say a lot about us and you certainly don’t have to spend a fortune to get footwear that tells the world you’ve made it.  If you have an old leather pair, (or even suede or canvas) a little effort and insider knowledge is all you need to go from tattered to dazzling.

Here’s a few methods and ideas on why you should restore your old shoes.

Hoard your shoes

Ok not literally, we’ve all seen the shows… BUT a great pair of shoes doesn’t come along very often. When chance has it that you’ve found that beautiful combination of comfort and style, your heart literally aches when you have to finally slip them into the circular file. Fortunately, whether you’re dealing with flats, sneakers, heels, sandals, hiking shoes, or even an old pair of leather shoes that you’d like to look new -you’ve got options.

Don’t buy new. There are ways to clean, patch, and reinforce your way to new-looking footwear, no matter what kind of shape they may be in. You’ll need a few tools and a good attitude and the party can get started. Those boots that were made for walkin’ can avoid the forsaken and abandoned.

Restoring leather shoes

If your old leather shoes have weathered rain, snow, water, sun and more then you are not alone; this is a common problem for men and women. That favorite pair of shoes will get beat up more than most. Over the years, even the best quality shoes can become a little tired-looking. You can carefully clean your shoes to transform them and it will also bring areas of repair opportunity out. Start with these tips:

• Use a brush with soft bristles to remove all traces of surface dirt, dust, mud and debris.

• Wash your shoes with a moisturizing saddle soap. This is actually good for the leather and will remove excess wax from previous polishes.

• Stuff your shoes with newspaper and allow them to air-dry. Don’t put them near a radiator or in direct sunlight.

Once your shoes are clean and dry, you’re ready for the next step in the rejuvenating process.

Polishing your leather shoes

There’s no magic here. All you need is a tin of good quality polish, a little moisture and a soft cloth and you’re off and running. You know you love to display them as much as wear them, so go on now… polish like you’ve never polished before.

• Wrap part of the cloth around your index finger.

• Dip your finger in the polish and use your digit to apply polish to the shoe.

• Cover a small patch at a time, working in a circular motion.

• When you feel the area becoming a little rough, add some water. We recommend dabbing the cloth on a wet sponge rather than the age-old method of spitting!

• Keep building up layers of polish, adding water as necessary, until you get a lustrous sheen.

• Persevere until you have a smooth even shine.

Dyeing your leather shoes

If your shoes are badly scuffed and polishing looks like it isn’t going to be enough, you can use dye to restore them to new. With a bit of time and effort, you can even add some custom finishes like an ‘antiqued’ toe.

It’s vital to make sure that your shoes are completely free from polish, soap, wax or oil before you start, otherwise the dye will not be properly absorbed by the leather. You can buy a specialist stripper product to do the job.

So you’ll choose your color and have to remember that if you’re dyeing shoes you must always go darker. Brown or burgundy to black is fine, but it’s harder to dye black shoes a lighter color – the black will always show through the dye.

• Chose your shoe dye with care – it’s good to read reviews before you buy!

• Use a small, fine brush to apply the dye.

• Apply the dye to small areas of the shoe at a time, until the whole shoe is evenly covered.

• Allow to shoe to dry for at least twenty four hours.

• Carefully re-touch small areas or apply another coat of dye if the coverage isn’t even.

• Lock the color in with a good polish.

It takes some time and attention, but you can achieve a rich, vibrant brand new shoe if you are determined. You can also resole your leather shoes! Not many people take on this task themselves, though it is DIY compatible if you really want. There are great resources on Youtube to aid you in your quest.

Image source: parisiangentleman.co.uk

Restoring Suede and Canvas Shoes

Not every shoe you love is leather. You may have a pair of Vans or Chuck Taylors that are like comfort food when you slip them on. These can be restored as well to deliver a few more years of satisfaction.

Before & After Images found on instructables.com

If you really want, you can round up toothpaste, steel wool, a plastic scrubber and your utility sink. You can apply the toothpaste onto the steel wool and scrub the dickens out of the soles and suede/canvas. You probably won’t hurt it. This process can be repeated until the light of day starts to emerge and then rinse them under the water.

---

Do you have old shoes that need a little love?

Color Glo international and Color Glo franchisees world-wide are specialists in color restoration and repair of leather garments, accessories and furniture. Our European franchisees specialize in restoring purses and shoes. Our work is permanent and environmentally safe. Color Glo specialists use non-flammable, odorless, water-based products that dry quickly.

Keep your investment for years to come. Revitalize. Restore. Save money. Contact us today for more information.

How To Care For Your Leather Jacket

Wearing and Caring For Your Leather Jacket

A real leather jacket or coat is usually an expensive investment and can take a while for you to source or purchase depending on your tastes. Your leather jacket can last for many, many years if given proper care though. In many cases, you can wash a leather jacket at home if you follow the correct methods.

Know your leathers. It is important to understand the type of leather you are purchasing and to be sure that it is real leather. Many synthetic products can look very similar or in some cases, just like real leather, but the type of cleaning and care will be very different.

Types of Leather Jackets and Coats

Leather jackets (and leather in general) come in several grades and finishes and that makes a difference in how they are cleaned. There are the four most commonly sold types of leather and here they are:

• Suede: Natural suede leather is created from the soft underside of a split grain animal hide. It has a gentle, nappy finish that is easily stained. There are always very specific care and cleaning steps for suede jackets. This is also true for accessories and furniture.

• Nubuck: Nubuck leather is similar to suede in appearance, but it uses the top of the animal hide which is finely sanded and buffed to produce the very softest, velvety leather finish. The care techniques for Nubuck leather are similar to suede. The stain removal process often requires treatment by a professional.

• Aniline: Aniline leather is a full grain leather that has been treated with the chemical aniline. This is the most common type of leather used for jackets and can be very durable.

• Nappa: This is the cadillac or highest grade leather. Nappa leather is ultra soft and supple. It uses a full grain sheep or lamb hide.

Before You Wear Your Leather Jacket

If you want to keep your jacket looking its best for the long haul, be sure that the leather is properly treated with a leather protector. You can purchase leather protector products in both liquid or spray-on formulas. The protector helps repel water and prevents stains on the leather surface from water spotting and soil. You should really apply protector products on an annual basis. If you use and abuse your leather and wear it often, then a more frequent treatment may be necessary. Then again if you like that tattered “vintage” look as the fads would have it - then by all means beat it up! But if you’d like it to last, then follow a few simple guidelines.

There are several things you should avoid when wearing your leather coat:

• Full Pockets. You don’t want to stretch your leather out and have it be forever unshapely. So a word of advice is not to cram your pockets full of "stuff" or carry heavy items.

• Sprays and Perfumes. No good. Do not apply hairspray, perfume, or cologne while wearing your leather coat. You will dry the jacket right out from the alcohol in these products. If you must give an extra spritz before hitting the town, do it while sans leather jacket and wait for it to dry before putting it on.

• Pins and Accoutrements. As you can imagine, your favorite Elk’s Club pin will leave a permanent hole in your leather jacket - unlike your cotton or blended sport coat. Never attach badges, pins, tape, or stick-on labels to leather.

• Alterations. It goes without saying - have a professional do any size alterations or attach any emblems or embroidery to the leather surface. Holes caused by incorrect stitching or poking will be almost impossible to remove. Let’s call it impossible :-).

How to Clean Your Leather Jacket

Generally speaking, you can wipe away most soil with a clean, damp cloth if your jacket has been properly treated and protected. Some stains like ink from a pen or even mildew require specific treatments though.

You might find one fall, when pulling your leather jacket out of the closet, that the inner lining is soiled with body oil or perspiration. What to do? If the coat is expensive or brand new you may want to head to a professional leather cleaning expert. Not every cleaner has the credentials however to clean leather jackets. Check them out first so it doesn’t get destroyed. If the inner lining is made from a washable fabric, you may be able to simply clean it at home. The product will likely clue you in.

You should never wash suede or nubuck garments yourself though. Hand-washing is only appropriate for aniline leather finishes only. Before doing this, test the color-fastness of the leather using a clean, white, wet cloth on an interior spot of the leather. If color transfers to the cloth, the dye is not stable on the leather and you should not proceed.

If you decide to DIY wash your leather jacket at home, you will need to be prepared to devote several days to the process. Afterwards you’ll need to properly condition the leather to bring the luster and life back into it. Leather is much like your own skin. If you dry it out with harsh soaps, it will crack and feel stiff.

Hand Washing Your Leather Jacket

Empty all pockets (common sense right?) of the jacket and turn it completely inside out. Fill a large sink or plastic container with lukewarm water. Add a small amount of a gentle liquid detergent recommended for hand washing delicate items (Woolite is a good example). Swish it up and make it soapy.

Submerge the leather jacket completely and swish through to be sure the lining is wet through and through. Squeeze the solution through the lining and allow it to soak for ten minutes or so. If there are stubborn stains present, use a soft bristled brush to help lift those away.

When it is time to rinse the jacket, lift the jacket out of the soapy solution. Simply squeeze out the excess moisture - you don’t want to wring it. Fill the sink with clean water and rinse it out thoroughly. You may have to change the water several times to remove all of the soap and soil.

Once you’re done washing the jacket (or coat), turn it back right-side out and hang over something to air dry. Make sure to use a sturdy wooden or padded hanger to prevent creases in the shoulders. Obviously you don’t want to hang it in direct sunlight or neat a furnace or heater. It will probably take a couple of days for your leather jacket to dry completely.

The next step is to completely condition the garment until it is once again soft and supple. Be sure that you use a good quality leather conditioner.

How to Store Leather Jackets

Storing your coat properly will prevent many leather problems. Pull out that same sturdy hanger and store it in a cool, dry area away from direct sunlight. Avoid any location that has excessive moisture-even a closet near a bathroom where steam may be present. If you are concerned about dust, cover the coat with a cloth garment bag or cotton sheet. Do not store your leather jacket or coat in a plastic bag that could trap moisture and promote mildew.

I wouldn’t iron if I were you…

---

Do you have a leather jacket that needs more than cleaning? Rips, tears or scratches?

Color Glo international and Color Glo franchisees world-wide are specialists in color restoration and repair of leather garments, accessories and furniture. Color Glo specialists are available to help restore, clean or re-dye your valuable property. We offer an on-site service safety and convenience, eliminating the downtime of transport and ensuring our best work. Our work is permanent and environmentally safe. Color Glo specialists use non-flammable, odorless, water-based products that dry quickly.

Keep your investment for years to come. Revitalize. Restore. Save money. Contact us today for more information.

How to Choose the Right Colors for your Leather Furniture

Choosing the right colors for your leather furniture

Do you intend to purchase a piece of leather furniture but you’re not sure which color will perfectly suit your room’s needs? If yes, the various tricks on how to choose a color for your leather furniture discussed below will with no doubt be very crucial to your room needs. In addition to a leather piece of furniture providing a suitable place to relax, there are several merits that this piece of furniture carries along. For instance, a quality piece of leather furniture, such as couch, can make your living room more appealing to your family members as well as to any guest who visits you. In order to make your room pop it’s important to choose the right color for your leather furniture.

Look for Inspiration

Before choosing a color for your leather furniture you should browse through several interior design magazines to find some ideas on possible colors. Interior design magazines will give you some useful hints on selecting the right colors and provide pictures of different leather furniture designs which are currently trending. You can also visit several home décor shops and furniture stores in your area to see which color will best complement your home.

Consider Colors that Complement your Existing Furniture

One of the most appropriate tricks for choosing a color for your leather furniture is basing it on the colors you already have in your room. For instance, if you have a lot of blue in the room with paintings, rugs, or lamps, a piece of leather furniture that has a hint of orange can be a suitable addition.

If you intend to place your leather furniture in an empty or new room, it’s recommended you pick a neutral color in order for you to have a variety of decoration options to use when you will be designing the other places of your room. 

Choose a Piece of Furniture that is Neutral 

A neutral color for you leather furniture can be appropriate if you want the product to match all your rooms. Based on experimentation, a leather piece of furniture in a neutral color such as navy, gray, or cream will certainly appear great in any of your rooms.  If you decide to go for a neutral leather piece of furniture add pillows or throws that match the color decoration to the rest of your room.  

Matching the Furniture to the Outdoors

If the room you intend to place your leather furniture in has several windows, it’s essential you try to pair the color of the furniture with your outside greenery. For instance, if your room is located in a forested area, selecting any earthly tone color such as brown or green would be an ideal option.

Take into Consideration the People who will be Using the Furniture

Before deciding on a color for the furniture, take into account other people of your family. For instance, if you have kids or a pet, going for a medium or neutral dark color sofa is recommended so that your leather product will hide any potential stains. If you don’t have children or pets, you could choose a white or tan color since it won’t be as apt to get damaged.

Think of the Mood of the Room

The room you intend to place your leather furniture in may be used mainly for entertainment, relaxation or for any other activity. If there is a specific role you want your room to serve, ensure the color of the leather furniture is reflecting that purpose. For instance, if you will be using the room mainly for entertainment purposes, it is suitable you select a bold, bright color such as purple or red. On the other hand, if your room is particularly meant for relaxation, choosing a light, minimalist sofa color such as beige, or pale green is a perfect choice.     

Put into Account your Own Personality 

Since you’ll be seeing this piece of furniture everyday it’s wise to choose a color that best fits your personality and sense of style. You’ll end up enjoying the furniture more if it matches your design taste. People will end up learning more about your design preferences when they see the color you have chosen. The color of a piece of furniture can say a lot about a person and their feelings on design.

Considering which room you’ll put your furniture is also essential. Figure out the place you will put furniture and note carefully how the color you select may be affected by that location. For example, if you’re planning to put your leather furniture in a place that receives sunlight directly, the fabric of your sofa can fade over time. Therefore, choose a pattern or color design for your furniture that won’t noticeably fade, such as cream or gray. You can also ask your close friends or relatives about the colors they consider are most appropriate for your leather furniture.

This article was written by Nicole Jackson of House Tipster. She is very passionate about home improvement and interior design.

---

Do you have leather that needs restoration? Restore vs. replace.

Color Glo international and Color Glo franchisees world-wide are specialists in color restoration and repair of leather furniture. Color Glo specialists are available to help restore, clean or re-dye your valuable property. We offer an on-site service safety and convenience, eliminating the downtime of transport and ensuring our best work. Our work is permanent and environmentally safe. Color Glo specialists use non-flammable, odorless, water-based products that dry quickly.

Keep your investment for years to come. Revitalize your home and save money. Contact us today for more information.

Preparing Your Boat For Winter

Winterizing your boat

Like anything in life, preparation is the key to success in your endeavors. Boat ownership is possibly one of the most important things you can ever put preparation into place for. 

Some may not realize it, but winter “time off” can be especially hard on your boat. Extended periods of inactivity will accelerate wear and tear and can contribute to breakdowns in the next boating season. If left unchecked, corrosion and rust can spread extensively and moisture can intrude and freeze during the winter. Lubrication can congeal and basic neglect can really take its roots over the long, cold months. If you don't take the time to get your boat ready for winter, it may come back to haunt you when you're itching to hit the water again. 

For these reasons, it’s vitally important to get your boat ready for that “long winter’s nap” with a proper autumn lay-up. Even if you don’t live in a place where the waters freeze and the snow piles deep on the ground, following some basic tips will keep your boat “ship shape” and ready for action after an extended period of storage.

Is this you.... It might go well when April/May arrives.

Keep your boat clean

Seems basic but it's hard to do for many. A clean boat will weather the time of winter storage better and will reduce the work necessary when the time comes to take her out again.

• Wash the topsides, bottom, and deck (with a coat of wax on the topsides too) and clean all hardware and trim.

• Check for any blistering in fiberglass boats, especially for boats that spend extended periods in the water. If any blisters are found, treat and repair these problems.

• Don’t forget to clean windscreens as well as any bi-mini tops, spray hoods and the like.

• Let all canvas dry thoroughly before neatly storing these away. If possible, remove all canvas from the boat and store indoors.

• Some parts of your boat should be drained, where moisture can cause corrosion during these winter months.

  • Drain the gear case and watch for water intrusion. This can cause gear oil to look milky or discolored. If moisture is present you may have leaky seals. 

  • Completely drain any fresh water tanks and the hot water heater.

  • Open seacocks to allow any water to drain.

  • Drain all water from the engine.

  • Check bilges and remove any standing water, dirt, and oil

A boat that starts its winter holiday clean will help keep dirt and corrosion from getting a foothold and will be much quicker to get ready in spring.

Prepare the fuel system

Top off your fuel tank to avoid build-up of condensation over the months of storage. Change the fuel filter at the end of the season. Add a marine fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank as per instructions to reduce the build-up of gum and varnish, and to keep the fuel and entire fuel system clean during storage. After adding stabilizer to the tank, run the engine for a few minutes to ensure it circulates through the system.

Take care of the engine

It also seems like common sense, but most of these maintenance tasks are simply overlooked due to timing or life events. How many times have you skipped your daily workout or not brushed your teeth before bedtime. They all lead to degradation - the same goes for your boat. There are products out there formulated to leave a protective chemical film over internal engine surfaces without leaving a greasy residue or causing smoke when the engine is re-started. It’s also a good idea to spray fogging oil on a soft rag and apply a light coat to visible areas of the engine exterior. We can't give you specifics on how to treat your engine as your manufacturer and reseller probably have brand-specific instructions, so check with them or take it in to be winterized. 

Pressure wash the entire hull and running gear. Blast off barnacles and other growth on your shafts, props, rudders, struts and everything else on the lower unit. Clean the topsides, deck and lower unit with soap and water. Wax the deck. Check for blisters on the hull, and should it the hull need it, wax or sand and paint it at this time.

Check for leaks – keep an eye on the strainer, valve or seacocks, or any other areas where you may recall a leak occurring.

Other liquids to flush, change or add

Certain systems on your boat will require flushing and liquids such as fuel, oil and antifreeze should be changed or added.

• Thoroughly flush your cooling system with warm fresh water in order to remove any salt, dirt or corrosion.

• Change the engine oil and oil filter after the engine has been slightly warmed up in order to help flush out sediment and impurities with the discarded oil. Refill the engine with the appropriate oil recommended by your boat’s manufacturer. Change transmission fluid as well.

• As mentioned above, use fogging oil to protect the engine against rust and corrosion. Spray it into the air intakes while the engine is running. Remove spark plugs and spray into each cylinder. Also, spray fogging oil onto a soft rag and apply to the visible areas of the engine exterior.

• Run antifreeze into the cooling system and engine by using an intake hose to the water pump. Start the engine and run the antifreeze until it exits the exhaust. Run non-toxic antifreeze through your freshwater system, including shower, faucets, and any wash-down areas until you see the antifreeze coming out. Put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater as well.

Take care of your batteries

Your batteries also need to survive the winter. You'll want to keep them with a healthy charge so they are ready to go and provide long battery life for you.

It may be best to unplug your battery charger and test the charge on your batteries once a month. If you see the charge drop below 75%, plug in the battery charger, and top off your batteries with a full charge over night. In the morning, once fully charged, disconnect from the power. Repeat this step next month.

If you’re in an area where freezing occurs, it’s best to remove batteries entirely from your boat, and store in your home or some other warmer place. Get a portable charger to keep your batteries healthy during the winter with a periodic charge.

You'll also want to remove all electronics, fire extinguishers and other valuables from the boat. Obviously, you'll avoid losing them but it will also keep them safe from moisture damage, freezing or other damage that may occur. 

How about the vinyl and surfaces?

You probably read our article on how to Bring Your Boat Interior Back to New, where we reminded you of the acronym B.O.A.T. ...

You work hard to buy a boat and work harder to keep your boat looking good. You routinely put it in and take it out of the water, wash it, apply wax, and do your best to ensure it remains the boat of your dreams. Then it happens; one of our friends (hopefully invited) spills their adult beverage all over your well-kept carpeting, or they spill a cleaner or bleach on our vinyl seats and seams. Read our article "Top 4 Tips For Cleaning Marine Vinyl Interior" to really snap your boat into shape before the winter season. 

And when springtime rolls around again, pull out this article "It's time to unleash the boat and repair" if restoration wasn't in your winter budget at the time. 

---

Need help restoring areas of your boat or some advice on winterzing. Call a Color Glo Specialist. 

How To Remove Pet Odor From Your Furniture

We all love to cuddle with our pets, whether that be dogs, cats, rabbits, or anything with fur. The days when pets were simply working companions are gone and in almost every circumstance the idea of the pet living outside is eradicated. The family is family. Not only do our pets cuddle with us on the sofa or our favorite chair to watch TV, but they snuggle with us in our beds, go on long holiday trips and even out to dinner at our favorite dog-friendly restaurants. 

All of this one-on-one time means that all of our furnishings are going to hold the distinct smell of dog (or cat or whatever), and even the most rabid of dog lovers amongst us may not want the whole house to smell of a dog that needs a good washing. This is specifically true if we want to enjoy the company of human guests. So let's focus on dogs because they tend to have smells...  How do you get rid of that smelly dog smell? It's actually pretty easy. 

How to Eliminate Dog Odor

First thing is first - you have to start out by taking all of the furniture apart – pillows, blankets, etc. then vacuum everything thoroughly. If the sofa and chairs have removable slipcovers or cushion covers, take those off for washing. You'll have to get into the crevices of the furniture as deep as possible to remove all the hair and flip the bed mattress to get both sides. On the floors, make sure to get under all of the furniture and in the corners, where “hair bunnies” tend to gather.

Image: pliantalliance.org

How to remove pet odor from carpets and furniture

Next, gather your deodorizing supplies to work on removing pet odor from carpets, furniture, and beds. It’s really pretty simple; all you need is a big box or two of baking soda and a bottle of apple cider vinegar. Wash all of your linens, blankets and cushion covers in a mix of oxy powered laundry detergent and a ¼ cup of apple cider vinegar. There are also pet odor removers available at pet supply stores, but the home remedy works just fine. 

On the carpets, bed and furniture, sprinkle baking soda liberally, using a cleaning brush to spread it around and into the fabric. Let it all sit overnight so that the baking soda has a chance to absorb the odors. For the bed, you might want to do this in the morning so that you can clean and remake the bed at the end of the day. Follow up by vacuuming all of the baking soda from the bed, carpet, and furnishings and returning the bed linens and cushion covers or slipcovers to the furniture.

This will get rid of a great deal of the smell, but to really do a thorough job, you might want to rent a carpet cleaning machine with an attachment for furniture – or call a cleaning company to do it for you. Always start with neutralizing as much of the smell as possible before the shampooing, though, or all you will be doing is creating a hybrid of dog smell and perfumed shampoo. Not a good combination. And don’t use carpet shampoo on the furniture, or you could end up with ruined and smelly furniture.

Lastly, some people like to use a perfume product to help neutralize the smell. If you do this, make sure that it is non-toxic to animals. Many products that are safe for humans are not always safe for dogs or cats (in fact, most of them aren't safe for us either). Some home air fresheners, sprays, plug-ins and scented oils can be harmful to a pet's health. When in doubt just stick with the home baking soda remedy. 

And if you have a cat that likes to scratch or spray, there are natural remedies for that to! Read our article on "How to make your own cat repellant spray". 

---

If you need help with large cleaning and de-odorizing project in your home, call a Color Glo specialist today. 

How to Tell If Wood Furniture Is Worth Refinishing

We've all done it - found a piece of worn wood furniture at an estate sale or flea market and thought "I'll just refinish this and it will be brilliant". 

When you find a piece of wood furniture like this, it's really tempting to pull out your wallet and slide it in the truck. Often times though, we don't realize how much work this may equate to. It may also far exceed the cost of simply buying new (in some cases). There's a handful of things you need to consider before making the choice to refinish wood furniture.

Read on.

Is it high-quality construction?

This is the most important thing to consider. Wood furniture pieces that endure the ages are a high-quality build. Its hard to find these days in modern furniture design, so you are probably running across these in estate sales or grandma's attic. Know your construction standards. 

“Your find doesn’t have to have antique value to be a great vintage piece that will give you years of service.”

You'll want to look for signs that the piece was made before 1950, maybe even 1960, but really no later... It was after this time period that particle board and laminate surfaces began cutting corners and cheapening production cost. By today's standard, even furniture that was mass produced on an assembly line in the 1950's would be much sturdier and of a higher quality than today's cheap furniture. 

Your find doesn't have to have antique value to be a great vintage piece that will give you years of service, but still, you need to be extra-careful with really old pieces. There are a lot of vintage pieces of wood furniture out there made before the 1850's and attempting to refinish them yourself can really hurt their value. If you find a piece like this and you inevitably want it, consult an expert before starting this project. 

Is the piece of wood furniture painted?

Put on your expert eye here. You should be leery of things that are painted - there is usually a reason for that. If a piece of wood furniture had run its course, the owner may have painted it to cover water damage or stains, burns, filled holes, etc. It could ultimately reveal a double-time job and not yield the result you were expecting.

You are probably better off finding something that an old stank on it, like aged dirty varnish that just needs to be stripped off. You can typically see through varnish at what lies beneath - there shouldn't be too many surprises. It's also easy to do with some basics from the hardware store; it should come right off. 

Does the piece require re-gluing?

Next up. Give the wood furniture piece the rocking test. Put your hands on it and rock it back and forth, test drawers, look for sway, sit on it, etc. If the piece is not sturdy, you will have to take it apart and re-glue it using clamps. This isn't necessarily everyone's lane, so if you don't have the skill or workspace for that, you'll need to hire a professional woodworker to help with the job. 

It does take time to knock a piece of wood furniture apart and completely remove the old glue and start from scratch. If you need to hire an expert to re-glue this piece for you, you can expect to pay a nice penny for it. For example, a chest of three drawers can easily run you $350 - $400. 

What will it look like when it's done?

It's really hard to know what the piece of wood furniture will look like once it's refinished. To get an idea of what your piece will look like refinished, find a protected spot where the original wood is visible, such as the back of a solid-wood drawer front, underneath the top surface of a chest of drawers or the backside of a leaf in a drop-leaf table. This is where you can determine if you like the look of the grain and that you understand what color will emerge in the end. Wood that is older will often re-finish much darker than newly milled wood. 

Make sure that you like the look of the grain and that you understand what color you’ll come out within the end—old wood often finishes much darker than newly milled wood. Here are the characteristics of several common types of wood on older furniture pieces:

Walnut

Walnut has a more lively grain than cherry or maple. It is one of the few wood types that can actually get lighter over the years. So the range of tones that you can achieve with stain can be limited by the natural rich brown color.

Cherry

Cherry is a very smooth wood with a mild grain that can be stained a variety of colors. If the wood furniture piece is 100 years old, however, and you've stripped it, the refinished wood is going to be very dark. 

Mahagony

Mahagony is a love it or lose it wood type for many. No matter what you do to it, you are going to expel a reddish color during the refinishing process. It may be brown-red, but in the end, it will be red in appearance. For some, this is defining and unique, elegant and rich. For others, they couldn't imagine it in their home. You decide.

Pine

Most pine, regardless of era, would have probably been painted right away. So in this case, it's pretty rare that you'll run across one that you'll want to strip and refinish. But who knows... If you do, you can expect a honey-brown color that is darker than new pine. 

Maple

Maple pieces made from the 1890's through the 1920's are often a beautiful figured bird’s eye or tiger maple and will have a strong yellow tone if you refinish them. Plain maple from the 1960's, (which was often stained an orangish color) can be stripped and made more modern with a light brown stain.

Oak

Oak was the core element of Victorian furniture. "Old" furniture was often made of quarter-sawn oak with a bold flecking in it. When you refinish the type of oak wood furniture, you can get a beautiful old tiger oak grain that appears golden in color. Very royal!

“Just remember to buy the piece for what it is rather than what you think it could be. 

”

 

Will the refinishing job be difficult?

If you a DIYer, its all about the process for you, but you need to be prepared for the level of involvement in this project in order to restore a piece of wood furniture to new. Just be on the lookout for a few signs that your project may require extra work, advanced techniques or help from an expert. 

1. The piece has slats or spindles that are very close together
2. Different parts will need different applications.
3. It's made from random boards that are not from the same tree. 
4. It has deeply carved or applied filigree. (Time-consuming...)

The bottom line

Be prepared to walk away. Not every piece you find will be an amazing story of restoration. It could just end up being a tremendous headache and expense. It starts with a time investment into some furniture history, tell-tale signs and some patience in your quest. If you can exercise these things, you'll find your gem in the rough.

If you've acquired a piece but you are not sure what you have, then consult an expert. You may also want to contact professional restoration specialists to help bring it back to life before your journey gets too treacherous. 

---

Want to hire a professional?

How To Refinish Wood Furniture

Some essential tools for refinishing your wood furniture

If you're thinking that your wood furniture is worn, beat, sun-faded and potentially scratched up by the cat, then you might consider refinishing the wood. Such items in your household might be a dresser, nightstand, family room table, dining room table, chairs, etc. There are basic essential tools you'll need to perform this job properly.

Step 1 - Round up your tools

• Wipe-on stains and finishes
• Good cloths
• Fine steel wool and paste wax
• Some random odds & ends

• Stripper for paint removal
• Stripper for finish removal
• Power sander
• Good sandpaper

Fox Chapel Publishing

1. A thick stripper for paint removal. There are all kinds of strippers available on the market, but for these types of projects, you'll want to get thick coats of paint off an old piece of furniture. You'll need a thick product that clings to it in order to get the job done. As your local hardware guy for his advice. 
2. A thin stripper for finish removal. For old finishes, you won't need something as "powerful" as the above recommendations. Look for a watery stripper that you can use to wash down the piece by soaking it over and over again with a brush (earmark this brush for this function). The stripper dissolves everything and it should fall right off. Obviously, you'll want to do over a drop cloth, pan or something to protect the work area. 
3. A power sander. Once you've stripped the surface of the wood furniture piece you are working to restore, you'll need to smooth the surface out by sanding it. You can sand by hand, if you want..., at about 150 strokes per minute. If you're like us though, you'll want to cut this tedious activity down and save your arm by using a power sander. This will increase your productivity to around 7,000 strokes per minute. You'll probably want sander discs on hand in grit sizes from 80 - 200.
4. Sandpaper. In addition to power sanding discs, get some 320- and 400-grit sheets of sandpaper plus a couple of blocks for hand sanding. Again, there is sandpaper galore when you explore the hardware store, but some do actually stay sharp and last throughout your project; as your guy. There are also a lot of blocks on the market, but to keep it simple, use a felt block or a wood block with some cork glued to it to save your sandpaper in use.
5. Wipe-on stains and finishes. If you're a novice in this area and getting into your first or second project, you may want to use wipe-on polyurethane and gel stains (or gel topcoat) products. They take a bit longer to use, but they are easy to use and they turn out looking really nice. Brush on products are also an option, but they are thicker and stay wet longer so drips, sags, brushstrokes etc are more of a common challenge you'll have to deal with. If you're a pro, well... then you're probably on to spray guns.
6. Good cloths. That's right, your cloths must be "good", and by this we mean spun cotton products that stand up to the test of time. There's no need to buy new shop rags: just wash some old cotton T-shirts. One thing to be careful about is to make sure they are lint-free. You'll leave little visitors all over your product otherwise.  After using your rags or cloths, put them outside to dry right away. Dry rags won't combust like a wet rag has the potential to do.

7. Fine steel wool and paste wax. The curing of your wipe-on finish may take some time - a couple of weeks to be exact. At this stage, you'll want to do a soft rub-out with fine steel wool and paste wax. By gently rubbing the surface along the grain and buffing it out with a soft rag, you'll end up with a beautiful soft finish.

8. Odds and ends. Plan ahead. Like any project, it’s a good idea to have a few things on hand before you start a refinishing project. These items could be painter’s tape, pencils and markers, disposable plastic cups, finishing nails, stirring sticks, household ammonia for brush cleaning, clean canning jars, old tablespoons and yellow wood glue. You'll be looking for all of this stuff throughout your project.

Fox Chapel Publishing

How to refinish wood furniture

Apply stripper

Depending on the size of your project, you will have chosen the appropriate stipper. Use your thick stripper for above for large projects and wood furniture with layers of paint on it. For small projects, you can now use aerosol spray paint stripper. It’s easy to control and it won’t spill, so it's convenient for a lot of people that are doing projects at home. Once you've applied your stripper, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. You’ll see the old finish start to lift up off the wood.

Remove any old finish

Use your scraper tool to remove the old finish. Keep a disposable shop cloth or paper towel roll around to wipe the blade between scrapes. You may have to apply stripper and scrape more than once in order to remove the majority of the old finish.

Image DIY Network

Clean it with mineral spirits

You'll want to clean the area at this point. It's kind of like a medical procedure... everything must be in order and as clean as possible. So once you’re done stripping and the surface and it has dried, wipe the wood with mineral spirits using a clean cloth. This will remove any residual stripper from your project. Allow it to dry for a few hours at least.

Sand it smooth

You've heard the phrase "smooth like a baby's butt" - this is your time. Use your power sander with medium-grit sandpaper (about 150-grit) until you can see the bare wood. Then switch to a finer sandpaper (such as 200+ grit) until the entire piece is uniform and "smooth like a baby's butt". Afterward, wipe down the entire surface with a clean tack cloth to remove any sanding residue.

“You may need to apply multiple coats until you achieve the color you’re looking for.”

 

Apply the stain

We talked about wipe-on stains above and we're assuming you are in that novice category. Staining is easiest to do with a staining pad. Just dip the pad in the wipe-on stain and wipe it on using long, even strokes. Just like painting a surface, you'll want to apply even pressure and length to your work.

When you're done, you'll want to use a clean wiping cloth to remove excess stain. Wipe lightly along the grain - this will prevent streaking. Just like trimming your filet mignon, if you go against the grain, you'll get funky results that fight with you along the way.  You may need to apply multiple coats until you achieve the color you're looking for. Follow this process until you like the end result, but it is key to let it dry between coats otherwise you won't see the true color of the stain. 

Apply your paste wax

This the stage where your steel wool and paste wax come in handy. Do a soft rub-out with fine steel wool and paste wax. By gently rubbing the surface along the grain and buffing it out with a soft rag, you'll end up with a beautiful soft finish.

Or you may want to apply an oil-based clear coat for a final layer of protection. Keep in mind, this will also give it a whole new sheen and luster, so if that's not the vintage look you're going for you can skip this (knowing that you may damage your newly refinished wood faster). You can sand with fine paper.

Let it dry

After you steel wool-rub or clear coat it, let your finished piece fully cure in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. We recommend doing this for at least 24 hours before you put your wood furniture piece back to use. 

---

That's it! With a little time investment and some good products, you can turn your old, worn wood furniture piece into a striking new accessory for your home. Here's a video below from the DIY Network showing you one process on wood trim.

Nicole shows how to restore painted wood trim to its original beauty.

Want to hire a professional?

How To Prevent Color Fading In Your Home

Some tips to prevent color fading

Depending on the layout and interior design of your home, you have probably sat in your favorite chair in the early evening and been amazed as the rays of sun play tricks on the walls and surfaces that adorn your home. Maybe you're an early riser and have sat in bewilderment at the splendor of natural light filling your home and flowing through the rooms at sunrise. 

The colors in your home become so rich and vibrant as the sun penetrates the room and various pieces of furniture and items of interest get drenched by the God of light. The sunlight adds depth and charm to your home, enhancing the appearance of everything in its path. It provides a natural ambiance unique to your home, and your home only.

Revel in it. 

Allowing this natural wonder of light into your home, however, has one major drawback – it can literally ruin your carpeting, fine furniture and artwork on the walls. The UV rays in the sunlight can break down many of the chemicals that exist in furniture and fabric dyes and cause permanent discoloration and fading of wood. You'll want to prevent this negative by-product of the sun's beautiful rays on your home investments by finding an efficient way to protect them from color fading and deterioration. 

In order to prevent color fading in the key areas of your home and preserve your furniture for many years, you need to take adequate protective measures against the harmful effect of the sun. And remember that UV rays are present even on cloudy days. The same rule applies as if you had your skin directly out in the elements all day long. 

Protect your furniture from the sun

• Abstinence. The easiest method to save our furniture is to keep your pieces away from direct sunlight. Place your furniture, especially the more valuable ones, in shaded areas of the room, away from direct sunlight, windows, and skylights. You may want to reorganize your room to accommodate the natural light. Most people have never thought of this, so you'll be ahead of the curve.
• Window Treatments. Use window treatments of some sort. This can come in form of hanging curtains and draperies, blinds, and shutters, or use shades and awnings to block out the sun. This will also be useful during the hotter summer months of the year in terms of keeping your home's temperature regulated.
• Apply window film.  Window films are a great way to handle sun and natural light in your home. High-quality solar window films can reflect up to 99.9 percent of the sun's UV rays. Window films are installed on the inside of your windows to create a protective layer that filters out harmful rays. They will not restrict your view, so they're really an effective tool. You can save on the energy bill by adding a window tint.
• Re-invest into your home. If the home is a long-term plan for your family, you may just want to install new windows. Modern windows are specially designed to block UV rays (they filter about 85 percent of the harmful rays) and improve the energy efficiency of your home.

“UV rays are present even on cloudy days.”

 

Protect furniture from fading

You may want to take another step. In addition to preventing sunlight exposure, you may also want to look at some kind of coating to protect the furniture surface. 

Seal your wood furniture

Sealants will protect the wood from sunlight, heat, and water. Some sealants can also greatly enhance the beauty of the grain. Depending on the type of wood and amount of exposure you have a few options.

• Varnish. Varnish will seal the wood fibers and provide good protection against ultraviolet light and water. It is made from resins, oil, and solvents, and comes in a variety of different finishes.
• Lacquer. A lacquer will create a hard shell over the furniture surface and provide it with a durable, long-lasting protection. It is not recommended for coarse grain woods or super-soft woods.
• Polyurethane. This is also very durable and long-lasting but can be susceptible to cracking under intense heat. So if this is the alternative to removing your piece from direct sunlight, then you should probably consider something else. Again, a combination of these products and key room placement is the best idea.
• Shellac it. Shellac is a natural product that brings out the richness of wood grains. It looks very attractive on walnut, mahogany, and fine veneer woods. It isn't super durable though and offers only average resistance to sunlight and wear. Your best bet with a shellac is for use on a decorative piece of furniture that doesn't see much daily use. 
• Wax it. Oil it. Waxes and oils require regular upkeep but will enhance the appearance of wood furniture substantially. So if you're looking for beauty with a splash of function and you can commit to a monthly routine of curating your amazing home - this one is for you. 

Protect fabric upholstery

We can't think of a fabric that is not highly susceptible to fading from the sun. The more "high-end" the material such as silk or linen will fade and wear faster. Materials blended with acrylic, polyester, and nylon are less likely to fade (at least quickly). To prevent the fabric on your furniture from discoloration and premature wear, you'll want to consider spraying your pieces with a specialize fabric protector. You may also want to check out our article An Ounce of Prevention For Your Furniture. 

“Make sure you choose lighter colored furniture pieces that are likely to sit in the sun, as lighter fabrics show less fading than darker ones.”

 

Condition your leather

Ah, the forsaken... the abandoned. We talk about leather all the time; it gets bought, placed, used and abused. But it doesn't have to get worn and beat to the point of replacement. The beauty of your expensive leather investment is that it can indeed, last a lifetime. 

When leather pieces are exposed to direct sunlight, the leather’s natural oil evaporates (just like your skin does). As a result, the colors fade and the leather stiffens and cracks. The darker the leather, the quicker it will fade. Conditioning the leather can help prevent drying and discoloration. You can read a bit more about How To Care For Your Leather Furniture. 

In the event, family, time and life just get away from you and despite your best intentions your leather furniture cracks and fades - all is not lost. Sun fading can actually make a piece feel vintage and antique - perhaps the end result you were after. If areas of your leather furniture have turned to damage and despair, you can bring them back to life with some natural products that fun to make and healthy to use. Make sure to read our article How To Make Your Own Beeswax Leather Polish for some great advice. 

Stay tuned for "How to restore faded wood furniture"

---

Want to hire a professional?

How to Restore Your Leather Handbag

Cleaning your leather handbag/purse

For many, leather handbags and purses can be a wearable piece of art that defines who we are out in the world. And for many... it's a real investment that many of us are willing to make. Though women tend to "invest" in handbags more than men, the men of today carry handbags and leather luxury goods more and more. 

A Proper Man-Purse. 

Like a diamond engagement ring or collector's watch, when you've invested a lot of money in a handbag, you'll want to make sure it sticks around for a lifetime. But taking care of leather goods can be tricky - and when it's an item you've fallen in love, with much more lies at stake.

So, how do you clean a leather handbag?

The very first place to start is with an ounce of prevention. This should begin the day that you purchase your leather handbag and you should treat your bag with a cream or leather care product designed for it, at least once every 60 to 90 days. 

Secondly, regular cleaning should be a no-brainer - even if it's a quick wipe down. For quick, regular cleanings simply wet a damp cloth and remove dust and build up that can damage the bag, it's lining and interior pockets. But once your bag has some age or wear on it, it will typically need a more thorough cleaning by a professional color restoration specialist every few months to keep it like brand new. 

“Protecting your handbag can prevent the pentration of grease, staining, and all other spills and mishaps later on. ”

 

Here are the DIY do's and don'ts. 

• Once per week - wipe your bag with warm, soapy water. You can mix a small amount of mild liquid soap with warm water and use a soft damp cloth to wipe away any dirt from the outside of your handbag. Make sure to wipe with the grain of the handbag to avoid ruining the leather. If you've ever sanded a board or trimmed a filet, you get the idea. Grain is where it's at. 
• Avoid the usual household wonder liquids. You should never pull out baby wipes, vinegar or any other 'home remedy' for cleaning or tackling stain removal on your luxury handbag. These products have chemicals (whether occurring naturally or man-made) that can destroy your hard-earned investment. 
• Ink and pen marks! The key to removing ink marks is to treat them immediately. Your best bet here is to call your local Color Glo Specialist and schedule an appointment. If you're a die-hard or simply unable to, try a special ink removing product for leather and follow the care instructions, making sure to condition the area afterward. Then leave it to dry properly before using the handbag again. If the ink stains are old, do not try to remove these yourself. Seek professional help... you will need it.
• Stuff your bag while not in use. If you're a collector of leather handbags or have a few of them that come out on special occasions, then it would behoove you to stuff your bag with terry cloths or some filling material. It will keep its shape for a lifetime. 

Keep your handbag stuff when not using it. Photo: Handbag Clinic

• Grease Stains. Just wipe them off. Using water or liquid will simply make them a mess to clean up. 
• On tougher dirt and ground in problem areas, use a professional leather cleaning agent. A good cream does not need to be rinsed (which could damage your bag further). You may find a bit higher investment in good leather conditioning creams, but like most things in life, they will perform far better. 

“Use a leather conditioning/cleaning product that is made for the material your handbag is made out of.”

• Always use a product designed for use on your particular material. A general leather cleaner will not be as effective on a suede or nubuck interior than a product specifically designed for it. Just do your homework or consult with the manufacturer's recommendations.
• Spot testing is key. Always, always spot test a small area that out of sight. You would do the same thing before spraying Scotchgard™ on your brand new fabric couch. You should take the same care with your luxury leather handbag purchase. It's likely you paid more for it than the couch...
• Dust bags - use them! If your bag came with a dust bag, then you should probably ask yourself, why? Dust bags are not intended for nice branding and good looking packaging, they are intended to keep your handbag DUST-FREE when they are not being used. 

You can always use a pillow case or something similar if you don't have a dust bag.

• Sunlight. Don't leave your handbag in direct sunlight. Just like your good furniture, you wouldn't leave in the window in blazing sun every day. The same color fasting will occur. 
• Do not use saddle soap. It will most likely be too strong for the leather on your bag and could cause it to discolor.
• Smelly bags... to forever banish lingering effluvia, put an open container of baking powder carefully inside your bag, place your bag into a dust bag or pillow case and leave it to sit for 24 hours. It should absorb that scent you didn't like.

---

For the Fashionistas...

You may not have thought of this, or maybe it has affected you already. Do not rock light color handbags with dark clothing. The dye from your dark clothing may run and transfer to the handbag. This is one of the single hardest stains to remove.

If you do end up with a really stubborn stain, try matching a shoe polish to the color of your bag and buffing a small amount over the affected area.

Want to hire a professional?

How to Clean Your Automobile's Interior Wood Trim

Cleaning interior wooden trim

Ahh wooden trim... Think classic jaguar. Wooden trim can really bring the class level of your automobile investments to a new level but if its not cleaned and cared for properly (like all other parts of your car) it will begin to look faded and tired, and can leave the overall impression of your interior looking drab. 

If your wooden trim is excessively dirty or has been left unattended and it has build up on it, then it should be thoroughly cleaned with a diluted all purpose cleaner and a microfiber towel. Using soft-bristled detailing brushes can also be used to access tight areas, corners and curves. It is important when using an all purpose cleaner that you ensure you thoroughly remove all residue and do not allow it to dry anywhere on the trim.

Next Step

After contaminants, dust, and grime have been cleaned off you will be able to see the true condition of the wooden trim. If it has become oxidized or lightly scratched/swirled over time you can polish it to remove these imperfections.

An all in one polish product made for the paintwork of your car may ideal for polishing wooden trim. A small amount should be applied to a sponge or microfiber applicator pad, then worked into the trim using both circular and linear motions. Once the polish has dried it should be buffed off with a soft microfiber towel.

“An all in one polish product made for the paintwork of your car may ideal for polishing wooden trim.”

While polishing your wood, you should be careful not to contaminate the surrounding trim with polish residue. In fact taping off the trim with painters tape may be a good idea depending on the car. 

If the trim has been neglected over a considerable amount of time you may need to repeat the polishing process a number of times until the trim has been restored to a satisfactory standard.

Some classics may have wooden steering wheels. 

What do I do now?

You've polished; what now? After polishing, your wooden trim can be waxed with a good quality natural carnauba based product. This will help to protect and seal the trim. It will also bring out the clarity of the grain in the wood and vastly enhance the reflections of the clear coat. The wax should be applied via a sponge or microfiber applicator pad, left to cure, then buffed off with a clean, soft microfiber towel. You'll want to ensure again that you do not contaminate any of the surrounding trim with wax residue or your job will become a bit more involved...

Maintenance is key

After your wooden trim has been cleaned, polished and protected it should be routinely maintained. Owning an automobile is either a passion or a pain for many people and wooden trim can increase your time invested. It needs be properly maintained along with the rest of the interior of your car to keep it looking its best. It should be vacuumed off using a soft brush attachment to remove any dust and loose contaminants, then wiped over with a soft microfiber towel and a detailing spray. Using a detailing spray works very well in maintaining interior wooden trim. You may want to read our other advice on how to clean the interior of your car.

If you find that you have a problem with your trim attracting allot of dust and other loose debris soon after it has been cleaned. This could be due to static that has been created from buffing it with a microfiber towel. A good way to combat this problem is to use an anti-static screen cleaner that is designed to clean computer monitors, mobile phone screens and other similar surfaces. The cleaner should be misted over the surface then lightly wiped over with a fine, soft lint free cloth.

For more reading, check out how to clean plastic exterior car parts.

Want to hire a professional?

How to Clean Plastic Exterior Car Parts

How to clean plastic car parts

We've talked about how to clean the exterior of your car in the past, and even the leather seats and upholstery. We also covered how to clean your car's interior plastic parts. But what about all the exterior plastic parts that weather the elements?

Your car's plastic will build up dirt and dust naturally just by moving and operating or even sitting there. Your clean natural clean tendencies are simply not enough. By cleaning your car's exterior as well as the interior, you can keep it looking newer much longer. Very good for resale and very good for you as you cruise the strip.

Your car has a lot of exterior plastic (believe it or not), which may require a different approach than the interior of your car. Knowing what to use is key, as plastic can be discolored or adopt a permanent haze if you're not real careful. Many years ago, we had to be careful not to confuse rubbing compound for turtle wax... Well, with today's chemicals and endless options, you'll want to excercise the same caution when clean your car's plastic parts.

Your potential for failure :-)

Your car is made of several types of materials, though most of the parts that are for aesthetics or looks are plastic. Plastic is used because it is easily molded to a desired shape and can be tinted to match the vehicle’s color. It can also be painted to match. Plastic parts range in purpose including:

• Molded plastic parts for door panels or quarter panels.

• Close-out panels designed to block mechanical parts from view.

• Smooth, painted components such as bumper covers and trim areas.

• Textured plastic parts. 

• Soft-touch plastics for attractive interior/exterior finishing. 

“A general rule of thumb is painted plastic on the exterior of your car can be cleaned in the same fashion as the rest of your paint.”

Plastic components can (and do) get dirty just like the rest of your vehicle. Common offenders are oil from the road, dust, and debris, and potentially even food, beverages, bugs and more. Plastic may need to be treated differently than the rest of your car depending on its composition and finish.

---

Clean the textured plastic exterior parts

Textured black plastic on the exterior of your car is typically very rich in color. And whether they are black, grey, or tinted to match the rest of your auto's paint job, they can fade from the sun. Textured black plastic is typically used for parts such as mud guards, unpainted bumpers, windshield wiper cowls and other similar accessories. 

You'll notice when this fading has happened because what used to be deep and rich will now appear to have a white tinge or cloudiness to it. 

Your plastic can be restored.

Materials Needed

• Clean lint-free cloth

• Plastic trim cleaner (we recommend a Color Glo product that your local color restoration specialist will use when working on your project).

• Trim brush or toothbrush

Image: Your Mechanic

Step 1:

Apply the cleaner. Apply a quarter-sized drop of trim cleaner directly to the plastic part. Work in small sections just like when you're washing your car. So don’t use a spot of cleaner larger than a quarter and keep your work area tight and controlled.

Step 2:

Brush in the cleaner. Brush the cleaner into the trim with a small, plastic-bristled brush or toothbrush - everybody keeps these around for just this purpose. First spread the cleaner thinly over as large a section as you can with the brush. Then, brush the wetted spot with the brush until the plastic underneath appears un-faded and even. You'll be surprised.. it will come right out.

Step 3:

Wipe the area dry. Wipe the spot dry with a clean, lint-free cloth, removing any remaining cleaner and dirt. And that's it! From here you can read up on how to clean the exterior of your car to bring the entire vehicle back to new.

Want to hire a professional?

An Ounce of Prevention for Your Furniture

We've all heard the saying...

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Benjamin Franklin was talking about fire prevention in the city of Philadelphia when he coined this phrase, but it’s one that can be applied to any situation. This philosophy will go a long way if we apply it to the objects that make our body comfortable ­– that is, the furniture we sit on, such as restaurant and office seating; transportation seating, and yes, even those dentist chairs!

Whether you’re an individual or business, making and keeping these types of seating comfortable is important. However, in this article we’ll focus on homeowners and their furniture.

Furniture problems and preventions

So let’s talk problems and prevention. And if you’re picturing grandma’s plastic-coated furniture, then know there are better solutions. Here are some things you can do to not only keep your seating comfortable but looking good as well. Try to do as much prevention as possible to avoid having to go for the cure. Also, realize that the type of seating material is going to determine the type prevention as well.

Problem: Scratches

Scratches can result from a variety of sources: pet claws and sharp objects being the most common. We’re talking about human-caused scratching and other marks (we’ll deal with pet-related issues in the last point).

• Prevention: A large part of the prevention of scratches is simply being mindful of what we have in our hands and how we let that object come in contact with our furniture. A protective coating can help protect tiny scratches, but a deep scratch can only be prevented by carefulness on the part of the person who uses the furniture.

Problem: Stains

Stains can come from a variety of sources. The list is endless: food spills, liquids, ink, bodily fluids, and even water. We think that a quick swipe with a cloth (or our sleeve) solves the problem, but the surface isn’t really clean and residue can remain.

• Prevention: Once again, stains can generally be prevented by carefulness on our part. Be mindful of how and where you place things that could stain your furniture. And if you do spill something, clean it up immediately, making sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions so as not to cause further staining.

Problem: Dirt & Dust

Dirt and dust mostly come from constant use and the environment. Sometimes it’s brought in by people and pets, and it’s pretty much always around, and furniture is often the recipient.

• Prevention: Since most of this unpreventable, being proactive in keeping the furniture dust free, vacuumed and wiped clean, will stop the buildup of dirt and dust. If you let it build up your furniture will look dingy and clean up will take longer and require more effort.

Basement and lower-level living spaces can naturally cause dust and dirt build up.

Problem: Tears, Cracks & Punctures

Cracks can come from constant use, while tears and punctures are caused by sharp objects coming into contact with the material.

• Prevention: There isn’t much we can do about the cracks that occur from constant use. But you can keep the material well-conditioned to prevent dryness that will lead to cracks. As for tears and punctures, once again be mindful of the objects you have in your hands. If you’re carrying something sharp, like a knife, have it in a sheath or make sure the blade is in such a position that it won’t come in contact with the soft material of your furniture. When talking specifically about your leather furniture, you may want to learn how to make your own beeswax leather polish to ensure your expensive investments last a lifetime. 

Problem: Fading & Bleaching

Constant use will lead to fading or a worn look in the material, while bleaching is due to the furniture being exposed to direct sunlight on a consistent basis.

• Prevention: This problem is actually a fairly easy one to prevent. Simply put, keep your furniture out of direct, constant contact with the sun.

Problem: Pet-Related

Pets can cause a variety of problems: smells, residue, stains, and scratches. Some pets can be trained, but others (like cats) consider themselves the rulers of their domain.

• Prevention: We all know that pets have a mind of their own, and generally don’t care about our wishes and how we want them to treat our furniture. In some cases, they can be trained, while in others we may need to use a product that will deter them from damaging our furniture. Take a look at our post on How to Make Your Own Cat Repellent for some natural ways to discourage your pet.

Final thoughts on your furniture

As you can see, most prevention involves carefulness and mindfulness on our part. If we are proactive in the care of our furniture, that will help prevent many of the accidents that can occur. It will keep our furniture looking good and comfortable to sit in. When something does happen to damage your furniture, be sure and take care of it immediately so that more damage does not occur from neglect.

We have several articles on our blog that will give you some good tips on taking care of your furniture: 

1. Leather Furniture Care Tips

2. How to Clean a Microfiber Couch

3. How to Care for Your Leather Furniture

4. How to Clean Upholstery Tips

5. How to Clean Velour Upholstery

If your seating has been damaged to the point where a homemade, natural or store-bought solution cannot cure it, then it may be time to turn to our professional color restoration and repair technicians. Find a Color Glo Franchise Location HERE on our website.

How To Clean Plastic Interior Car Parts

How to clean plastic car parts

We've talked about how to clean the exterior of your car in the past, and even the leather seats and upholstery. But what about your plastic car parts?

Well, there is more to cleaning a car than just filling up a bucket with mild soapy water, scrubbing it down and rinsing it off. The plastic interior needs to be kept clean as well. Your car's plastic will build up dirt and dust naturally just by moving and operating or even sitting there. Your clean natural clean tendencies are simply not enough. By cleaning your car's interior, you can keep it looking newer much longer, which is good for resale and good for you.

Your car has both interior and exterior plastic, which may require some different methods. You just need to make sure you are using the right products on your plastic interior.

You can keep your classic car or sports car looking this good with a little bit of TLC.

What you need to clean interior plastic

Vacuum the interior first. Before you begin this project, vacuum out your car to remove any debris, dirt, and dust. Your cleaning products of choice will perform much better if you take care to vacuum before getting started. You can avoid scratching your plastic dash and other areas by using the soft brush attachment. 

1. Remove the floor mats BEFORE your start to vacuum. 

2. Take extra care around vents, knobs, and accessories. You can damage these easily if you're not paying attention. 

“Vacuum out your car first, to remove any debris, dirt, and dust”

 

Cleaning the interior

Dust the plastic. Use a soft damp cloth (water only) or soft hand-held dust mop (available in the car care section of any grocery or discount store) to clear away dust. Some people use a vinegar solution for this too. Generally speaking, this should be ok as vinegar is a non-abrasive natural cleaner but depending on the composition of the plastic, you may find that it leaves a residue. With today's composite materials and expensive replacement costs, sticking to water is a great option.

A small, soft-bristled paintbrush works well to clear dust from crevices around the gear shift and hand brake, the radio controls and other tight spaces where dust can settle. You can also use a soft-bristled toothbrush and Q-tips to clean crevices and hard to reach areas.

Tip. If you used a damp cloth, go back with a dry soft cloth to dry the plastic.

Photo: Your Mechanic

Treating stains on plastic

If your plastic is stained, apply a very small amount of mild soap, laundry detergent, or plastic auto cleaner to a damp cloth. If you need advice on what auto cleaner to use, just ask your local Color Glo Specialist.

Never apply any cleaning solution directly to the plastic. Wipe the area until it is clean and follow it up with a clean, dry rag. If you cloth begins to show dirt, turn it to a clean spot otherwise you'll simply be in the business of re-distributing dirt. 

Tip. Always apply any cleaner to an inconspicuous spot to test how it may react to your plastic.

Image: Wikihow

Keeping your shine

Apply a protectant. Once your plastic is cleaned, you should apply a protectant. For DIY'rs, you can visit the automotive section of of any larger retailer or auto parts store to get some advice on what might be a good option. Always apply sprays or chemicals to your cloth or rag vs. directly on the plastic. You'll avoid spots and over-treated areas. Replace your cloth or applicator as necessary. 

Use a polish. To add some shine to your plastic, use a plastic polish. Or you can use some natural products such as olive oil or boiled linseed oil. Put some oil or polish on a soft cloth and then rub it into the plastic. Then use a clean soft cloth to rub away any excess product. Boiled linseed oil can be purchase from a hardware or paint store. You can find your favorite strength of virgin olive oil at your favorite grocer. 

Tip. If you find a good all-in-one product that you like, you can cut down the amount of products you use and potentially some cost. They are out there.

Need to hire a professional?

---

How to Clean Velour Upholstery

How to clean velour and velvet

We can't help it, we love velvet and velour, especially nice grays or deep blues. But you struggle to help it retain its luster or keep from being a hair and dirt trap.  

The velvety appearance of velour (and velvet) makes it an elegant, beautiful choice for upholstery. But it does require some extra care to keep it looking beautiful and luxurious. With dirt and dust, the fabric loses its soft touch and becomes stiff and dull looking. You may also notice slicked wear spots over time where your head or face often sits.

There is some hope. Check out these tips on how to clean velour upholstery for new looking furuntire all the time. 

What you need to clean velour

First thing is first. You need to round up some basic household supplies. Gather these items:

• Soft brush
• Vacuum with brush attachment
• Bucket
• Water
• Mild liquid soap (Ex: Woolite Upholstery Soap or mild dish soap)
• Ammonia
• Muslin fabric
• Suede brush

Steps to cleaning velour upholstery

1. Use your brush. Your starting point is to remove as much dirt as possible by brushing it away with your soft brush.
2. Loose dirt and visible dust can be removed by using a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. 
3. Fill up a bucket with warm water.
4. Add a small amount of mild soap and stir the water. Do not agitate the water to form suds, just mix in the soap nicely to create a soapy liquid. Add a few drops of household ammonia for extra cleaning power if you think you need it. Up to you.
5. Muslin fabric is a special type of material and is gentle to keep from damaging the soft fibers of the velour.
6. Dip the fabric piece into the soapy water and wring it out completely. Wring it out until it just feels damp - excess water will not be your friend here.
7. Rub the moistened cloth over the surface of the upholstery. Use a back and forth motion as you are cleaning. "wax on, wax off..."
8. Repeat as necessary until the surface is clean.
9. Change the cloth and water as necessary to keep working with clean materials.
10. Once the surface is clean allow it to dry completely.
11. Brush the surface with a suede brush to restore the soft texture.

“Wring it out until it just feels damp - excess water will not be your friend here.”

Velour tips and advice

1. Do Not... clean velour with high heat cleaners. An example of this is a steam cleaner. The heat can (and will) damage the material and cause discoloration.
2. Do ask advice... Velour is a sensitive fabric and is often best left to cleaning and color restoration professionals. If your piece is very soiled or you just don’t want to risk damaging the surface, hire a professional who is experienced with velour.
3. Choose wisely. When choosing a liquid soap, avoid those with additives and color. A clear soap is the best option.

Lastly, about your velour

If it's hairy and fuzzy...
Vacuum any accumulated dust or dirt with a special upholstery attachment for velvet - this may or may not come with your vacuum. This will also remove any fuzz that has formed on the surface of the fabric. Run your vacuum attachment back and forth until the surface is clean.

Remember the days of pantyhose trickery? It works here to. If you don't have the proper attachment for your vacuum, then place a piece of pantyhose over the nozzle and start lightly vacuuming your velvet or velour. Fuzz be gone!

If you've spilled...
The number one thing you should do in a hurry is blot. Find a clean, super-absorbent cloth or paper towel and let it soak up the excess liquid. Do not dab or rub the area - you'll just work it deeper into the fibers. Its very likely you can just leave the cloth in place and it will absorb most of the liquid and it can then air dry. A spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide may get any excess staining out just by spraying and letting it sit, but be warned, you should color test an area that is out of sight first. 

If your velvet or velour has lost its sheen...
Try directing a steamer at the reverse side of the matted areas to make the fibers fluffy again. Then dry brush the area, making sure the pile is going in the same direction.

Need to hire a professional?

---

How To Clean the Exterior of Your Car Like a Pro

How to wash your car

When it comes to washing your car, its a love/hate relationship. You either enjoy your vehicle as a hobby and it is your pride and joy or you hate the thought of even cleaning a floor mat and just assume it rot where it sits. So here are some tips for the enthusiast to clean your car's exterior like a pro. 

Are there general guidelines I should follow?

Yes. If you're in the category of enthusiast and washing your car is chicken soup for your soul, then you know there are some things you need to think about. Washing your car can be easy and enjoyable and regular washing helps a new paint job keep its luster. But as simple as washing your car may seem, there are some things to watch for so that you don't accidentally scratch or degrade the finish. Below are some basic car-washing tips.

1. Shade is your friend. Your vehicle’s surface needs to be cool. If the car is hot, the soap suds will dry too quickly, staining the surface and requiring another wash. Enjoying washing your car goes as far as doing it one time on your afternoon off. 

2. Pre-soak. Pre-soak your vehicle to remove grime, bug shrapnel, and heavy contaminants like rocks, water bottles, McDonald's wrappers and bunny remains.

3. DO use mild liquid soap and a soft car wash mitt or some other towel designed to respect your paint job's luster. Renew your water regularly. 

4. Patience young Jedi. Many times, we just soap up the entire car and get to work. Negative ghost rider - wash one section at a time, and then rinse it off. You should start with the roof of the car, then proceed to the hood and the rear. It makes perfect sense to go top-down rather than create more work for yourself. 
   
   Next, clean the upper quarter panels, then move to the lower areas, including the rocker panels. The lower area of your car will always have extra "stuff" on it and the longer pre-soak as you work your way down will help eliminate this crud. The top to bottom sequence is also important because you run the risk of having small pieces of debris adhere to the mitt or sponge which may scratch your vehicle.

5. Hose off your mitt! This is the toughest piece of advice because it is a human diligence requirement. We all want to just put the mitt or cloth back in our water and rinse it there while soaking up some more soapy water. This is bad! Always hose off your mitt or sponge before putting it back in the wash bucket to re-soap. Start with clean water and end with clean water. Dipping your dirty mitt into your bucket, just helps you apply the grime right back onto your automobile. If you've every wondered why the car is streaking while you're washing it, this may be your answer. 

6. Rinse, rinse, rinse. Rinse your vehicle thoroughly and all over. When you feel satisfied and think you're finally done rinsing, go ahead and rinse it one more time. 

7. Rims and tires. Your car washing drawer should have a few different mitts and cloths in it. We heavily suggest using a different mitt to clean the tires and rims of your car then the body. Using a separate mitt for the wheels will reduce the chance that you’ll scratch the car’s paint with brake dust and dirt you pick up from the rims. You'd be surprised how many people just use the same water and same mitts for washing and rinsing everything. You might as well drive right to the auto body shop when you're done. 

8. Wheels. Ahhh, your pride and joy. Be very cautious when cleaning wheels, especially if you’re using a spray-on wheel cleaner. Wheels can be extremely hot if the car has just been driven or sitting in the sun. When you spray wheel cleaning chemicals on hot metal, the chemicals will vaporize and you will inevitably inhale them. Needless to say, this is not good for you health routine and depending on temperature and the chemical, you could cause some damage to products like Chrome or special coatings.

9. DON'T buy the pricey automotive cleaners. Instead, use a mild, liquid soap that is well diluted. This will accomplish everything you need, such as removing dirt, grease, and films without damaging plastics or other materials. Some people use household soaps but you also need to be careful to not use a harsh detergent. Stick to mild soaps and if possible find one that is safe for cars. The huge benefit is that it will cost you pennies over the heavily marketed auto detailing brands. 

10. The drying process. Dry your vehicle immediately to prevent water spots. Chamois work very well and can help you move quickly through a vehicle that may have the sun on it. 

What's next after I wash my car?

You should follow your wash process by waxing and cleaning the windows both inside and out. Applying wax to your car is like putting sunscreen on your skin. It adds a layer of protection from UV rays to prevent fading, as well as anything that may land on the paint.

You will be able to preserve your high gloss finish for a much longer span of time. You can find wax in a carnauba or polymer form. Both types of wax perform the same, but a polymer wax won't haze as it dries and can usually be wiped off soon after applying. The choice between using carnauba or polymer wax is similar to choosing synthetic or regular engine oil. A polymer is a bit more expensive but is easier to apply and some say performs better.

For the glass, the rules are pretty simple. Stay away from what you inherently want to do which is to grab Windex and other household glass cleaners. They can contain ammonia which can damage your car's window tint. Use an auto window cleaner for best results and wipe down twice to ensure the cleaner is removed. In a pinch, you can use a diluted white vinegar solution as it's a natural, low-cost, healthy household cleaner that should be fairly streak-free. 

Last thoughts and tips...

Don't... move your sponge or mitt in circles. This can create light, but noticeable scratches called swirl marks. Instead, move the sponge lengthwise across the hood and other body panels. If you drop your sponge, rinse it thoroughly. Never reapply a sponge that has hit the ground or gone into polluted soapy water. Take that extra time to change out your bucket. 

Maintain a shine. If you're going to lose sleep at night because the thought of pulling your freshly waxed car out to run an errand or (God forbid) go to work, then you may want to keep some supplies on hand to maintain your shine. There are several spray mists out there designed to remove daily debris and keep your wax job in top form. Toss this and a micro-fiber cloth in the trunk and you're armed and ready. 

Headlights

For headlights that are sun-faded, full of crud, or just plain old, you can check out our guide on "How To Restore Your Car Headlights to New".

If your car is nearing that "vintage" stage or you just can't bear to part with it, but it's an eyesore, you may want to recondition it. You can read about the difference between detailing and reconditioning your car.

---

Should I Use Silicone Based Conditioners In My Auto Interior?

Top questions about cleaning leather

1. Does my leather really need conditioning?
2. What kind of conditioners are best?
3. What about cleaning my car leather?

Color Glo specialists work to repair worn auto interiors and bring them back to life. 

Starting With The Basics

With decades of experience in cleaning and refurbishing surfaces, we've learned a few things along the way.  The single most important thing to remember is that we live in a marketing society that is overloaded with information - much of it incorrect. So how do you disect what is good and bad for you care interior, for your boat interior, for the health of your home, for your family... You catch our drift...

"In Our Opinion", based on experience

Research has only confirmed that leathers of today are not the leathers of yesterday. Hopefully, you've come to this same conclusion with many products in your life. Today's modern pigments, dyes and finishing processes have produced a car leather that is very resistant to the wear and tear that leather must endure inside the operating environment of our families, our jobs and our recreation vehicles. 

This also means that the days of searching for the best auto leather conditioner are mostly a thing of the past.  Since many of you may be "old dogs" and since old rules die very slow deaths, you will likely continue your search for the best auto leather conditioner that your money can buy, regardless of updated teachings. 

Quest on my friend.

About cleaning leather interior

• Virtually all car leathers used today are finished with a clear protective coating that is applied for protection and durability of the leather. What does this mean? It means you will actually be cleaning, treating, or conditioning a clear protective layer that is made up of different types of resins, polymers, synthetics. The point is that you are not dealing with the actual leather, but the clear protective layer; just like the clear coat on your car paint. 
• Keeping your car leather clean is the most important and critical part of the health and beauty of your car leather. In the experience of Color Glo professionals, keeping your leather clean and safe from elements consistently over the life of the car can keep your interior looking just like new 10 years later. 
• With all that said, SOME auto leather conditioners can still play a role in the health and beauty of your car's leather interiors. Do your homework or ask your local Color Glo specialist. 

So let's get to it

As mentioned, if you want your chariot to look clean and new for its lifetime, then weekly cleaning of its interior is a key point here, specifically for your leather. So what are the essentials?

Leather Care

Color Glo International specializes in leather cleaning and refurbishing. 

If you have an older car, you just might have leather that is un-coated with modern day clear coats. Your high-end luxury exotic has a completely different technology behind it's leather pilot's seats than your 1964 Ford Fairlane that took you on Friday night pink slip laps around the neighborhood.

Silicone dressing for automobile interior.

You should pass. Let's talk about out auto leather conditioner for a bit. Car leather today is the product of advanced engineering and manufacturing. It is highly resistant to wear and tear and daily use and abuse. Most of us that are in our early 40's and beyond, remember the day of hard cracked leather seats, hot surfaces, and deep conditioning. Gone are these days. 

The thoughts of massaging some magically engineered car leather conditioner into our car leather that can take it from a state of wear to gleaming new, is the stuff of legends. These philosophies still sit deep-rooted in our society's heads, but in reality, this is clever marketing to keep you buying into manufacturer's "kool-aid".

• Don't think you can apply auto leather conditioner without cleaning your leather first. The only exception is if your car is literally brand new. There will always be some form of dirt regardless of how clean your leather looks...so make sure you clean it first. Talk to your local Color Glo professional about mild cleaners that are designed to the job well. 
• Cleaning your car leather only will leave it with a satin, or matte appearance. If you want it to have a little shine then a dressing or conditioner may be the way to go, but be warned about dressings. Ryan explains why below. 
• Black or very dark leather interiors will typically have an inconsistent appearance after cleaning, making them more difficult to keep looking "like new".  For this reason, we do suggest using a conditioner/dressing in most cases to create a perfectly even appearance after the cleaning process. 
• As you may have noticed, humans get lazy and like to skip steps. So you might find yourself wanting to skip the cleaning part next time around and simply be seduced into applying a fresh coat of dressing. This will create a worse problem over time as you will be rubbing a fresh coat of dressing along with any dirt deeper and deeper into every area of your fine upholstery. Over time you will create a nice build-up of dirt and conditioners which will actually begin to deteriorate your automobile's protective top coat. Keep our number handy... you will need it. :-)
• Lastly, beware of the brands labeled as "long-lasting" or "water-resistant" as these silicone based dressings/conditioners will be difficult to clean completely off each time you do clean your car leather. Don't take the Tim Allen approach here form Tool Time and assuem that more is better. When it comes to dressings/conditioners, you actually want a product that will clean off easily each time and therefore allow for complete cleaning of your leather each time prior to a new application of conditioners. 

---

Ryan Feeborn from Color Glo Oregon gives us his thoughts on silicone based dressings. 

A few tips on auto leather conditioners

Just be smart and educated about your leather and auto interiors. Now that you're armed with a little bit of information based on real world experience, you can use the recommendations above to begin your own search. You may want to implement a schedule on your calendar if you're serious about protecting your investments. The "garage" or Man Cave schedule. 

• Clean your car leather once a month. If done regularly, it's just minutes of your time. If you procrastinate, it's a much bigger job which requires some beer and complaining - maybe that's better for you.... A microfiber cloth dampened with cleaner and aggressive rubbing is all your particular car leather may require if done so regularly.
• Use a Color Glo leather conditioner if it makes you and your car leather feel a bit better about it all.
• Use a canned aerosol dressing after cleaning any colored car leather to create a nice sheen. This will provide a consistent appearance after cleaning your car leather. This auto leather conditioner/dressing will also address the black/dark colored leather/vinyl interiors issue mentioned above. 

Motor On!

Top 4 Tips For Cleaning Marine Vinyl Interior

Should I be careful when cleaning my boat?

Yes. Yes, yes and yes. You probably read our article on how to Bring Your Boat Interior Back to New, where we reminded you of the acronym B.O.A.T. ... But our Color Glo Specialists wanted to make sure you know the Top 4 Tips for keeping your boat interior in good shape. 

You work hard to buy a boat and work harder to keep your boat looking good. You routinely put it in and take it out of the water, wash it, apply wax, and do your best to ensure it remains the boat of your dreams. Then it happens; one of our friends (hopefully invited) spills their adult beverage all over your well-kept carpeting, or they spill a cleaner or bleach on our vinyl seats and seams. 

Proud boat owners know this feeling well and have learned to keep their watercraft "in the family" due to it. Boat ownership is exhausting as much as it is rewarding, so we thought we give you a few more tips on how to ensure your work pays off in the end. 

Check your grades of marine vinyl.

Vinyl upholstery fabrics come in different grades, but this grade does not reflect fabric quality; it refers to the price it cost to make the fabric. You cannot find consistency in the vinyl fabric grading process because each manufacturer sets its own grades, much like tire manufacturers rate tires for speed without government or industry standards. So buyer beware...

Some boat interiors take a little more "TLC" than others...

Price grades range from "A" to "F," with the "F" grade representing the pricier fabrics. Rather than selecting vinyl upholstery fabrics by grade, choose the type of vinyl upholstery material you need according to its intended use.

Marine grade vinyl is a type of vinyl that you should want in your vessel to withstand time, torture, and sun. The problem is that not all boats come with it. Check your sales guy.

Cleaning your vinyl the right way

You might be tempted to spray bleach on your boat interior seats or use other harsh chemicals to try and mitigate some crude. JUST SAY NO. 

---

Brenda from Great Lakes Color Glo in Michigan give us the scoop on great marine interior cleaning advice. 

The process can be very simple if you take the time maintain your boat after each and every use. Just remember these quick tips. 

• Clean off the vinyl with a damp cloth first, removing salt, grime, dirt, and other debris.

• Apply a thin layer of Vinyl cleaning material, such as the Color Glo Vinyl Clean that Brenda recommended above. 

• Rinse with fresh water, dry, and repeat as needed.

If you have deep mildew stains or other mold problems from improper care, a good firm brush may be needed along with a water/ammonia solution to break up the mildew growth. 

How about UV protection?

Today, its a sales benefit as many people are aware they need UV protection - not only on their vinyl but our skins and everything else in our lives. The sun will beat your marine interior down and chew it up. So the question to ask is simply this:

Does my boat interior come with a high-grade vinyl that has UV protectant manufactured in?

If they answer is yes, then you're in really good shape by the time you've gotten to this question. If it doesn't, it's not the end of the world. You can still have high-quality interiors but have to use a Color Glo product to ensure your vibrant boat colors stay in check. Just contact your local Color Glo Specialist for advice. 

Choose your personal UV block with caution!

What you put on yourself will transfer to your precious craft. Choose your sunscreens and sun oils wisely as some will stain or leave oily marks in your vinyl, which can be very difficult to remove. In today's market of more health-conscious consumers, your options for organic products, oil and paraben-free products and creams that boast not being greasy are numerous. 

Choose wisely for the health of your skin and your boat's skin.

Lastly... Vinyl seats and covers on your boat are susceptible to drying, fading, and cracking. The sun, water, and regular wear and tear all age vinyl very quickly. Any vinyl on or in your boat should be regularly cleaned and protected to maintain it over the service life of our boat. 

The worst enemy to vinyl is extended exposure to the sun's rays and dirt and grime/sand/dirt build-up. UV rays from the sun fade and dry vinyl out. Dirt and grime retain moisture on the surface and together cause the protective topcoat on vinyl to deteriorate, cause mildew or other mold problems. 

The best advice we can give is to treat the boat like your own body. You clean it every day (hopefully) and brush your teeth. After every use of your boat, bring its livelihood back to new by brushing off seats and rinsing them, cleaning the interiors and exteriors and storing it with a cover to protect it from the elements. 

Happy Boating!